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Fashion week : la diversité en marche

2017 a a marqué l’urgence, pour la mode, de représenter et de célébrer la différence. Plus que jamais, on a pu observer une variété d’origines d’âges et d’identités sexuelles sur les podiums, dans la presse… Ce n’est que le début du chemin.

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C’était une réaction juste et viscérale aux politiques populistes en vigueur. Une matinée neigeuse de février à New York, la marque Gypsy Sport recevait une standing-ovation à la fin de la présentation. La raison de cet enthousiasme? Venait de défiler un cocktail explosif de mannequins afro-américains, asiatiques, métisses, blancs et albinos de toutes les tailles, certains queer, d’autres drag-queens ou transgenres. Impossible pour les clients présents dans la salle – presque tous des millenials – de ne pas se sentir concernés par le pari de la marque.  

Une semaine plus tard, Simone Rocha prouvait que le podium n’a pas d’âge en faisant défiler des femmes de 20 à 80 ans. A Milan, Domenico Dolce et Stefano Gabbana mêlaient mannequins, influenceurs et copains de toutes les tailles, âges et couleurs (même des familles!).

Verdict? La saison fut la plus diversifiée à laquelle on ait jamais assisté. Selon le site Web B2B The Fashion Spot, 27,9 % des mannequins de la saison n’étaient pas blancs: un vrai progrès même, tant la diversité sur les podiums demeure un sujet complexe. Et surtout, le reflet d’une industrie qui avance à plusieurs vitesses. 

« Une industrie truffée d’a priori »

Dans un monde globalisé, il est logique que les marques prennent en compte ce nouveau paradigme. Pourtant, si les boutiques poussent comme des champignons à Singapour, Shanghai ou Dubaï, les maisons peinent à adapter leur esthétique à celle de leurs acheteurs potentiels. « Au fond, il s’agit d’une industrie truffée d’a priori, qui a peur de sortir de sa zone de confort et de penser de façon plus originale », commente Caryn Franklin, professeur de diversité à l’université de Kingston (Royaume-Uni), et ancienne rédactrice chez I-D. « Souvent, ajoute t- elle, l’excuse pour éviter la variété consiste à invoquer une éventuelle chute des ventes. Ainsi la croyance habituelle qu’un magazine avec un mannequin black ou asiatique en couverture vendrait, en moyenne, 25 % en moins, c’est faux. »

Ben Barry, spécialiste en marketing et professeur d’égalité, diversité et inclusion à l’université Ryerson, à Toronto (Canada), ne dit pas autre chose. Selon lui, l’idée dominante est toujours que les consommateurs « non-caucasiens » admirent la beauté blanche et ne veulent s’associer qu’aux marques promouvant cette esthétique. « Des années de recherches avec plus de 3000 consommatrices m’ont prouvé qu’il est 1,5 fois plus probable qu’une femme noire achète un produit s’il se trouve promu par un mannequin noir, car elle se sent incluse par la marque. Dans le cas des femmes blanches, l’intention d’achat ne varie pas par rapport à la couleur de peau du mannequin, mais elles choisiront la griffe qui s’aligne le plus avec leurs principes… Bref, la diversité ne peut qu’être positive », conclut-il. 

Winnie Harlow au défilé Dior Haute Couture
Winnie Harlow au défilé Dior Haute CoutureGC Images

« Plus une entreprise est grande, observe Caryn Franklin, plus ça prend du temps de faire bouger les choses. Nous avons tous vu les mannequins Winnie Harlow en égérie Desigual, Halima Aden sur les campagnes American Eagle ou le top ‘plus size’ Stella Duval défilant pour H&M. Mais la plupart des maisons de luxe suivent encore de vieux standards. Et celles qui ne le font pas sont souvent celles qui se portent le mieux! » C’est le cas de Philipp Plein qui, lors de son dernier défilé, a choisi une majorité de mannequins non blancs, de toutes les tailles. Ou de Gucci, qui, sous Alessandro Michele, a fait de l’icône « trans » Hari Nef une égérie, et dont la dernière campagne ne montre que des garçons et des filles black. Ou de Balmain, qui a toujours célébré la diversité.  

LIRE AUSSI >> Halima Aden, nouveau mannequin chéri de la Fashion Week? 

« L’exclusion est inacceptable tout court; une robe ne veut rien dire sans une femme à forte personnalité dedans », affirme Olivier Rousteing. « Pour cela, il faut donner du pouvoir aux femmes, les faire se sentir belles et fortes quels que soient leur origine, leur silhouette ou leur âge. Les quotas, ethniques ou autres, ne suffisent pas, et ils sont insultants. Il faut éviter le côté freak show et intégrer l’idée de multiplicité dans la mode pas seulement devant les caméras, mais aussi derrière. » 

Représenter la vraie vie sur les podiums

Finalement, c’est simple: la vraie hétérogénéité vient de l’empathie. « Si les affaires sont entièrement contrôlées par des hommes blancs, il est difficile de créer ce sentiment, estime Caryn. Il nous faut aussi une pluralité dans les aspects créatifs et business du milieu. Mais je suis optimiste, tous les signes pointent dans la bonne direction. » 

Des exemples de cette évolution? Les créatrices britanniques Simone Rocha et Grace Wales Bonner, dont l’esthétique même est une exploration des différents codes de beauté. « Quand je dessine, j’ai en tête des grands-mères, des mères et des filles, note Simone Rocha. Les trois générations ont toujours été mes clientes fidèles. Comment, donc, ne pas toutes les représenter sur mon podium? »  

Grace Wales Bonner nommée au prix LVMH 2016 pour les jeunes créateurs de mode.
Grace Wales Bonner nommée au prix LVMH 2016 pour les jeunes créateurs de mode.Getty Images

Cet état d’esprit est partagé par des directeurs de casting comme la Norvégienne Madeleine Østlie, spécialisée dans le casting sauvage et qui compte Marc Jacobs parmi ses clients, la styliste Katie Grand ou le photographe Tim Walker. « J’ai grandi dans une petite ville terriblement rigide quant à ses perceptions de la beauté, j’ai eu envie d’élargir le spectre, raconte t- elle. Le street casting permet de montrer la beauté de ceux qui, d’habitude, sont marginalisés. C’est un pur métissage, comme dans la vraie vie. » 

LIRE AUSSI >> Les marques de mode qui militent pour une palette de nude vraiment complète 

« Ce n’est que le début d’une évolution »

Pour sa part, le Jamaïcain Deiwght Pieters crée un pont entre des marques à l’héritage occidental (Calvin Klein, Saint Laurent, Burberry ou Chanel) et les beautés noires à travers son agence de scouting Saint International, qui exporte des mannequins des Caraïbes. « Pour Chanel, il faut un visage qui dise la ‘parisianité’, la grâce intemporelle, l’élégance. Pour Vivienne Westwood, une punkette rebelle. Pour Céline, une femme intellectuelle au chic épuré. Cela est possible si on part du principe qu’aucune culture ni aucun style ne sont limités à un type de peau. » Triomphe ultime, Deiwght a même réussi à bouleverser les castings obstinément « caucasiens » de Vetements avec une de ses filles jamaïcaines, l’androgyne Naki Depass. 

« Ce n’est que le début d’une évolution qui, on l’espère, passera à la vitesse supérieure dans les prochaines années, au fur et à mesure que des personnalités, comme Edward Enninful [le premier rédacteur en chef noir de l’édition britannique de Vogue, nommé en avril dernier], prendront de plus en plus de pouvoir », considère Caryn. « Nous avons un rôle plus crucial que nous le pensons, poursuit-elle. Il ne s’agit pas seulement de représenter tous les consommateurs dans leur juste proportion ou de rompre avec une conception de l’esthétique extrêmement limitée: nous avons aussi une responsabilité morale vis à- vis du public. Il y a du chemin à parcourir, mais nous sommes, sans aucun doute, sur la bonne voie. »  

Simone Rocha, récompensée du British Award de la meilleure créatrice pour femmes en décembre 2016 à Londres, au côté d'Edward Enninful.
Simone Rocha, récompensée du British Award de la meilleure créatrice pour femmes en décembre 2016 à Londres, au côté d’Edward Enninful.Dave Benett/Getty Images

Lire notre dossier complet

Actrices noires, elles réclament plus de diversité au cinéma Pirelli dévoile son calendrier 2018

Qu’a-t-elle envie de dire aux gens qui se sentent écartés du canon dominant? « Cette dissemblance est votre point fort, ce qui vous rend unique, reconnaissable et créatif dans une société souvent trop lisse. Vous, les Français, avez une expression qui résume cela parfaitement: vive la différence! » 

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